Banka Banka Station, 18 47 33 S, 134 01 34 E, (440 Km).Another good night free camping in a rest area,having decided to have an early start this morning we were on the road just after 7:00 am and we had done 180 kilometres before we stopped for breakfast and a shower at 9:00am, the Barkly Tablelands remains rather sparse and the road, without corners for many long stretches at a time, only one car overtook us before the Three Ways Junction some 320 kilometres.We tookLyn’s advice (one of our Billy Tea friends) at Three Ways Junction and turned left to Tennant Creek and drove the extra 26 kilometres to the “United” Filling Station there to fill up with diesel thesaving being $16.80 on the cost of buying at Three Ways Junction, “thank you Lyn,” anexcellentsavings despite the extra 52 kilometres, which we didn’t waste using the “dump site” in Tennant Creek and visiting the old Telegraph station. We also had a great yarn for about 30 minutes with the tanker driver delivering fuel at the filling station and he told us all the cheaper fuelling points up to Katherine and some places of interest, he was also telling us the politics ofthe Australian and World fuel prices.Tonight we are at Banka Banka a cattle station on the “Adventurers Way” (the Stuart Highway), it is a little “oasis” the water coming from an underground spring and the camping area is really green,in contrast with the rest of the area which, not having had rain for several months is really dry.To-night we had a open air slide-show on Station life (UK = Farm, USA = Ranch), which was very interesting and enjoyable, it is certainly a tough life for the Jackaroo/Jillaroo’s on the stations but it does look like fun too.I wouldn’t do it, I don’t like horses.Forgot to mention we have gained a further ½hour back from the 24 hours we lost crossing the dateline, Northern Territory is ½ hour behind Queensland,hope it doesn’t upset my sleep pattern!
Monday 21st July 2008
Daly Waters, 16 15 20 S, 133 22 12 E, (310 Km).The drive today saw a dramatic change in the features of the landscape, gone is the grass and stunted trees, the ability to see over miles and miles of the dry centre and Barkly Tablelands to be replaced by different taller trees, grasses and bush of the wet Top End similar to that of Cape York, the more Northerly we go (again), we should see even more interesting scenery and Hot Springs and Gorges beckon, we might even see a creek that isn’t dry!We stopped at a ”ghost town” just off the Stuart Highway, “Newcastle Castle Waters” was an old drovers town, which with the rise in road transportwas no longer populated, there was some old builders with information boards with the history on which were interesting. Tonight’s stop is at the Daly Waters Pub Caravan Park, the pub is reputed tobe one of the most eccentric in Australia with an unusual array of mementos left by travellers, just walking in to the reception/bar today we have seen bras, banknotes, business cards and even an old rusty bomb shell and there is still more to see.We have booked for the “Beef and Barra’ barbeque tonight, could be interesting.
Tuesday 22nd July 2008
Mataranka (176 Km).What a great night at the Daly Waters Pub, we had a 7:30 pm sitting for our steaks which were delicious with Salad and Damper, we sat down as “Frank Turton the Chookman” started his nights entertainment singing, reciting poetry and telling jokes and wait for it…………… with a house with a drinking bottle attached as an hat complete with………..2 chooks sitting on the top (which he insists are Wedge-Tailed Eagles).This guy is a nutcase and is well known for his eccentric behaviour, but he did make everybody laugh.We had a good look in the bar, there was so much to see that I could not mention it all, Hats, Badges, ID cards, Bra’s, Thongs (UK = very small panties) all sorts of Bric-a-brac, a wall of Thongs (UK = Flip Flops) all signed by visitors to the Pub.What did we leave as a memento? Use your imaginations!After 3 days oftravelling high kilometres today was a short drive and we arrived at 11:00 only stopping at a World War II aerodrome to have a look round, however there are better examples of the strategic importance of the defence of Australia against the Japanese as we get closer to Darwin.We “chilled out” and had lunch before we had a short walk to the Roper River which adjoins the campsite, tomorrow we will walk to “Bitter Springs” and swim in the thermal spring water which is a constant 32 degrees,must remember notto simmer as long as we did in New Zealand, I was a bit “overdone” there!
Wednesday 23rd July 2008
We were woken at 6:30 am by some idiot on the campsite playing loud music, then we realised it was our new Telstra mobile phone, we had not heard the ring tone before.By the time we found it (does this sound familiar) THAT PERSON had rung off, guess who?Yes our daughter Rhiain, she does know that we wake normally at 7:00 am, what she didn’t realise (and I got the blame for not telling her) is that we had moved back a ½ hour when crossing in to Northern Territory,It was nice to talk to her when we rang backbefore she flew to some place in Europe called Monestar (well it’s something like that).No hard feelings at waking us up early, but I hope the passengers today are all grumpy old men.We have had areally lazy day, the lady at the campsite told us about a Red Goshawk that was nesting in a tree in one of the paddocks nearby so we had a short walk to try to spot it, but to no avail.We continued along the road to the Elsey National Park where the Bitter Springs Thermal Spring is, the water of the creek looked so inviting so we returned to the campsite to have lunch and we returned for a swim.We swam over to the other side of the creek from the steps where there were rocks and sat up to our necks in the lovely crystal clear warm water, I then suggested we swim down the creek about 200 metres (with the current) to the bridge and then swim back, however the current was to strong to swim back so we climbed up the ladder and walked back to the start. Jenny refused to go back to fetch my thongs (UK=Flip Flops) which I thought was a bit mean, so I had to walk back along the gravel path in my bare feet, ouch.We are having such a relaxed time here we are staying for an extra day and no doubt tomorrow will do something similar, i.e. not a lot.Don’t bother to ring us we have turned our phones off, might be able to have a lie-in in the morning!
Thursday 24th July 2008
Could sum up what we did today in one word, nothing!Well perhaps not quite, housekeeping was on the agenda or rather vankeeping,Jenny busy with mop and bucket whilst I attempted to clean the windows, except it was to hot and there were more streaks on the glass when I finished than when I started.We did discover not to park with the motorhome touching the leaves of a tree, a army of ants had decided to march along the rain gutter, go down the windscreen and underneath the bonnet, then not finding anything to eat, retreated back from the bonnet up the windscreen and back along the rain gutter.We soon sorted them out, I moved the van to block their retreat, then swept the gutter to dislodge them, before spraying along with insect spray. UKGreyNomads 1 – Ants 0 and we were numerically outnumbered.After such an exhausting battle we needed lunch before once again walking down to the creek to relax in the warm water, most of the people there are staying at the campsite so we had a bit of a yarn before walking back and having a shower.There are a few more people on the campsite tonight as evidently a 2 metre long Saltwater Crocodile has decided to become a residentat a campsite up the highway and they have had to close it.Well at least he’ll have plenty of room to pitch his tent!We will decide tomorrow morning whether to stay another day, problem being we have nearly run out of Milk (more importantly we have run out of Chardonnay) and there isn’t a Spar shop around the corner.
Friday 25th July 2008
Katherine (106 Km).We took the decision to the board and decided that we needed the Chardonnay Milk and voted to carry on to Katherine, not before I had walked down to the Creek early to take some photos before people arrived, it was quite photogenic with the mist on the water and walking back I nearly tripped over the tail of a Wallaby sitting in the road.We must have chosen the right position to park in, as we left there was a caravan waiting to move into the same spot.All good things must come to an end and next on the agenda was shopping for supplies at Katherine which is the only place of any size before Darwin and we are going to Kakadu National Park for a few days before then.I have also left the waterproof camera for the photos to be printed (not strictly true as they are putting them on a CD), they are mostly of our time in the Cook Islands so take a look at them on the Cook Islands photo page when we have uploaded them.The Katherine Hot Springs are only 500 metres from the back of the Holiday Park so we went for a walk to see what they were like, unfortunately we went the wrong way, (I should say I went wrong, because if I had listened to Jenny we would have been there 15 minutes earlier).They were not as good as those at Mataranka’s Bitter Springs, they were a lot less natural with concrete walls and steps and the water was not as warm, still we will probably still come down for a soak tomorrow.
Saturday 26th July 2008
Decided to have an extra day here and go to Nitmiluk Gorge which is approx 26 kilometres away from Katherine, the intention was to visit this part of the National Park on our return this way in a few weeks time but we thought we would take a look while we were here.We do want to do one of the package tours from here so we visited the Visitor Centre to pick up a brochure to see what is available.After lunch in the picnic area in the shade of the gum trees we thought we would do one of the walking trails, we decided on the “Baruwei Loop Walk” a 3.7 km 2 hour walk which takes you to a lookout with views along the No1 gorge (they are numbered 1 to 8) and 17 Mile valley.We returned along the top of the escarpment and back towards the visitor centre and car park, it was extremely hot but very rewarding and the scenery spectacular.Stopped at Woolworth’s on the way back for some wine, because of strict alcoholrestrictions in the Northern Territory we were only able to buy 1 x 2 litre carton ,so we bought one each and we had to show photo ID.We thoroughly deserved the soak in the hot spring on our return to the campsite and had a yarn with a man on holiday from Taunton, Somerset.We also collected the CD of our photos from the underwater camera (one of those Kodak disposable one’s) don’t bother looking on the website for them after all, they were rubbish!
I intend to live forever.So far so good.
Sunday 27th July 2008
Gungural Campground, Kakadu National Park, 13 17 30 S, 132 20 00 E, (246 Km). First stop this morning was at the Red Cross book exchange in the old Katherine railway station run by volunteers, it cost us $7 to change our 3 paperback books for 3 others, we have not bought a new book now since New Zealand and on some campsites it has cost us nothing, just one exchanged for another.We then drove 26 kilometres off the Stuart Highway to Edith Falls in Nitmiluck National Park, we were rather disappointed when we got there the falls not living up to our expectation, we will however take another look at them on the way back and walk the trail to the top. Our lunchtime stop was at Pine Creek where the road to Kakadu branches off from the main highway to Darwin, we did take a look in the railway museum but being Sunday the inside exhibit area was closed.After a “comfort” stop at Mary River Roadhouse and an ice-cream we continued to the “free” campground a kilometre off the Arnham Highway at Gungural, what a wonderful spot surrounded by trees and bush and only 4 other vehicles here, a peaceful night is on the cards.
Monday 28th July2008
Jabiru (106 Km).A few people have asked us whether we will miss our garden when we are in a motorhome, waking up in Kakadu National Park after a night “free camping” in the bush, the answer is an emphatic no!After over twenty years of having Kakadu on “my wish list” of places to see I had a lump in my throat when I finally realised I was here.There was no moon last night therefore we were in total darkness the night sky was amazing and I had another try at taking photographs of the Southern Cross and other constellations but for reasons which I cannot yet fathom I have a red light source in the top left corner of the image, I will have to keep trying. We also saw a satellite orbiting onlythe second time we have seen that, the last time at Lake Waikaremoana in New Zealand again on a totally moonless night.Our first photo stop this morning was a picturesque creek which we don’t know the name of and for the first time we both saw an Estuarine Crocodile (Saltie), I spotted it as I walked across the road bridge but it submerged before Jenny had seen it, fortunately it resurfaced near some water lily’s about 20 minutes later and we were able to see it more clearly, we also saw a Sea-Eagle and Jabiru during our stay there.Second stop and “smoko” was at Mirrai Lookouta 1.6 km, 50 minute walk up a trail to the lookout for a 270 degree view over the Park, it was hot and arduous and we nearly gave in before reaching the top, we both needed towring our shirts out when we finally arrived at the shelter at the summit, however it was worth it.We are staying in the small township of Jabiru, yes, the same name as the bird we saw earlier today, also known as the Black-necked Stork (but I guess that would be to long for a town name as well).Kakadu Lodge Resort is another little oasis with a superb swimming pool which was very welcoming this evening for a refreshing swim, there is also a Bar and Bistro next to the pool so we might have a meal there tomorrow night, we have also booked a couple of tours which we will tell you about later.
Tuesday 29th July 2008
First job this morning a quick foray into the township to buy some bread and milk and post a photo CD to Grace and Ian.Grace had forgotten her camera when we went to Thursday Island so Jenny lent her the Nikon Coolpix and we downloaded those and others that I had taken of our Cape York trip and transferred them to a CD, (bet she immediately deletes some of them).After a short walk aroundJabiru Lake we drove on to the East Alligator River at Cahill Crossing, we did part ofthe Mangarre Walk in the morning seeing 4 large Estuarine Crocodile, (yes I know it’s called Alligator River but the explorer that named it many years ago didn’tknow the difference) sunning themselves on the bank, luckily the opposite bank from our track.We also had to negotiate 4 trees full of Fruit Bats, what a stink!A lizard amused us while we sat for lunch at the picnic table, bet his ants weren’t as appetisingas our pork sandwiches.The afternoon we spent walking along the Bardedjilidji Walk (try saying that after a ginger beer), and it was the first time ever we have seen Mud Skippers which were walking/swimming/ sliding around the shallows of a billabong. We didn’t complete the walk because of the time, wanting to have a swim and relax around the swimming pool at the campsite.We finished the day having a meal at the Bistro overlooking the pool, Jenny having the Barramundi in beer batter and I had Prawns with garlic and chillies, lovely meal and enormous helpings.
Wednesday 30th July 2008
An earlier wake up this morning as we needed to be at the Reception at 7.30 for a pick-up to the airport.We have booked a scenic flight with “Kakadu Air” in a light aircraft (at least it was light until Jenny got on board) overKakadu National Park and Arnhem Land.Richard the driver and pilot picked us up in a mini-bus for our 15 minute drive to Jabiru Airport to board the Cessna C207.What fantastic views, the dramatic escarpments, rivers, creeks, floodplains and forest, we knew this place was vast but only flying low and slow in an aircraft can you get a true perspective of just how large it actually is, driving “the park” even on the 4WD tracks you would only see a very small percentage of the area.The pre-recorded commentary over our head-phones worked well with Richard “talking over” some of the important features of the landscape, pinpointing and flying round for views from both sides of the aircraft.A fantastic flight and one we would thoroughly recommend. After arriving back at the camp site we decided to just have a day relaxing so took our books down to the swimming pool and “chilled out”. Tomorrow we shall be driving to Cooinda back tracking approximately 50 kilometres down the Kakadu Highway for our nextbooked tour, this tour promises to be very interesting, watch this space!
Thursday 31st July 2008
Cooinda (56 Km).Just a short drive back along the Kakadu Highway to Gagudju Lodge at Cooinda, we are meeting our tour at 1:00 pm Kakadu Animal Tracks Safari to “experience the real taste of Kakadu”, away from all the other tourists, “the tour is for open-minded people looking for an earthy, eye-opening, unique and non-commercialised experience”.So Sean our driver and guide collected us in a mini-bus and drove us out to the bush, first stop ( and probably the most important) was to pick up Patsy an Aboriginal lady who was to accompany us, then we stopped at the Billabong on her land to try our first “bush tucker”.Sean and Patsy waded into the water for Water Lily’s or actually the seeds and stem and they tasted very nice too! Next stop was in the bush for root tubers which once we had identified the type of plant we were able to dig up ourselves (these were for our meal later on).Next a real test???? Green Ants! Patsy got bitten a few times as she crushed the nestin her hands handing a bunch around the group, dare we say it, a nice taste of citrus.After a short drive we reached the flood plain were Asian Water Buffalo grazed, they looked a bit mean so we didn’t add one to our food cache, Patsy did grab a handful of fruitfrom the side of the track with the help of a couple of young children who were on the tour, the fruits tasted a bit like Apricots our last stop to collect bush tucker was at a lagoon where we dug along the bank for Water Chestnuts, the “mozzies” were ferocious there so we didn’t get to many. Gindjala (Goose Camp) was our final destination to view the birds in the lagoon (there were thousands), watch the sunsetand cook the food in a gungehdi (ground oven).Sean made Damper and brewed billy tea, while Patsy with our help (Oh yes I did) plucked the Magpie Goose and Whistling Duck she had bought with her before roasting it on the fire, with the root tubers and Water Chestnuts being cooked separately.Watching the birds and the sunset we ate our bush tucker and enjoyed ever morsel of it ( you can stick your MacDonald’s were the sun don’t shine, unless they produce a Greenantburger with Water Lilystem fries). After dropping Patsy off at her home and saying goodbye in her language (which Sean had taught us) we returned to the campsite at 8:15 pm, having had a truly memorable experience.
Friday 1st August 2008
After a terrific tour yesterday an experience we will not forget, we were at the pick-up point at the camp site at 6:25 am (I kid you not) for the short shuttle-bus ride to Yellow Water Billabong for a 2 hour sunrise cruise along the billabong and South Alligator River.A lady we spoke to at Mirrai Lookout on Tuesday told us that the early morningwas the best time to go on the cruise and she wasn’t wrong.I could write a long list of the different birds we have seen this morning, from the tiny Azure Kingfisher to the mighty Jabiru and everything in between, the colour of the water, trees and vegetation in the early morning sunlight was a delight and we also saw some very large Croc’s. Tricia our Aboriginal guide and driver of our boat (a large aluminium punt with electric engines) was so enthusiastic and passionate about “her” river and her knowledge of the flora and fauna was staggering, and at times quite amusing and whilst the other boats seemed to go along at 20 kph and disappear up the river, we glided slowly, silently along and saw I am sure much more than the people on the other boats did. Like Patsy yesterday who spotted a large grasshopper on a tree as we were driving along, Tricia also pointed out so much that we would have missed. Digressing slightly from the tour, again it was so noticeable, like Patsy yesterday and Chocko on our Cape York trip how respectful they were of the parents and grandparents and how important the knowledge of their ancestors is to them. After having breakfast Jenny caught up with some washingand we spent the rest of theday relaxing at the pool side, this campsite having a “lagoon type” swimming pool with again some grassy areas to lie on.We were going down to the Billabong to watch the sunset but by the time we had eaten our tea (no bush tucker tonight, boring Spag’ Bol’,) we missed it, still there’s always tomorrow although we are not sure what time we get back from our “Kakadu Waterfall & Gorge Tour”
Saturday 2nd August 2008
Another early start this morning7:30 pick-up for our “Kakadu Waterfall & Gorge Tour”, Jared was our driver and guide today for the drive to Twin Falls and Jim Jim Falls, actually perhaps it should be called just Jim Jim because the actual waterfall stopped about 2 weeks ago.The drive first of all to Twin Falls was approximately 12 kilometres of bitumen, 50 kilometres of gravel and the last 12 kilometres 4WD.The way in to Twin Falls was interesting at one time people were able to wade or swim up the gorge to the beautiful sandy beach at the base from the track end, however the Fresh Water Crocodiles (not the “Salties) started to become aggressive so nowadays there is a free ferry up to the base in an aluminium punt with an electric engine which is summoned by a “walkie talkie” left on the bank side.There is abouta kilometre to walkin total from the car park to the track and then from the ferry landing to the falls including a walk along a pontoon, negotiating the large rocks on the way was very tiring so we deserved our Muffins that Jared had bought with him for our morning smoko.As there is no swimming allowed in the river or the waterhole at the falls ($5,000 fine and probably a eaten limb) it does mean a decent photograph can be had.If we thought it was tough reaching the base of Twin Falls then we had not reckoned with the walk into Jim Jim, we stopped for lunch at a pleasant slab of rock on the waters edge 400 metres from the car park, you are allowed to swim in Jim Jim Creek as there is a Crocodile (“Salties” in this one)removal plan at the start of the dry season, however if they removed them all why was there a trap in the water right opposite?The further 500 metres to the “plunge pool” at the base of Jim Jim took us over a hour of climbing around, over and through a massive boulder field along the side of the gorge.When we did eventually arrive we were knackeredexhausted, I told a lie earlier the falls were not completely dry, there was a trickle still coming over the escarpment at the top but nothing like the flow over Twin Falls, (Jim Jim Falls catchment area is only from rainfall in the wet season from the Arnhem Plateau , whereas Twin Falls is fed by a spring also on the plateau).It was tough walkingstumbling back to our transport but we finally made it, luckily we could replenish our water bottles in the creek which was far more pleasant than that from out of the tap atJabiru which was heavily chlorinated.We did get back to Cooinda in time for the sunset over Yellow Water Billabong so that finished off a tiring but very enjoyable day.Might have a lie in tomorrow!
Sunday 3rd August 2008
Annaburoo (225 Km).What a great start to the day, free Pancakes with treacle and cream at the campsite before we left, (good job really as we have run out of fresh fruit).The first stop today was at Mardugal Billabong walk only .5 kilometres along the forest track to the edge of the water, other than the forest birds there was no other signs of life so we walked back to the car park.The Nourlangie area is only 22 kilometres away so we decided to spend some of the day there, having a morning smoko at the picnic area at Anbangbang Billabong before walking the perimeter which was about 2.5 kilometres.I did extra distance because we spotted a bird we had not seen before (a White-necked Heron) so I walked back to get the super-zoom lens, I did tell Jenny to go but she refused preferring to sit in the shade waiting for me, (what happened to those wedding vows?).A great walk lots of different birds, colourful water lilies and very photogenic with Nourlangie Rock forming an impressive backdrop, no wander they say that this is one of Kakadu’s most attractive Billabong’s.Time for our lunch and while Jenny (who was still feeling the after effects of yesterday’s walk to Jim Jim falls) prepared it, I climbed the 600 metre Nawurlandja Lookout which gave me an excellent view of the Arnhem Escarpment, Nourlangie Rock and Anbangbang Billabong, we ate our lunch sitting in the shade of the picnic area’s covered seating having a yarn to another couple of visitors from Adelaide.Our last stop today was at Mamukala Wetlands, what a fantastic place, a observation platform allows you to view the bird life across kilometres of wetland, there were thousands of water birds there and when something “spooked” them (probably a raptor of some sort) they took off with a roar, it was most impressive.We were there a lot longer than we intended so we were rather late finding a campsite the sun was well on its way down when we finally left Kakadu National Park and arrived at Annaburoo Billabong.What a lucky find, doing a slalom along a short stretch of gravel road using Wallabies as “gates”, we arrived at a superb bush camp site, right on the side of the Billabong, no power but for $15 it was a great location, I even found a lady in the mens showers cos’ she said there were Cockroaches in the Ladies (no, I did not put them their).It is a pity we can only do without power to recharge the leisure battery for the fridge, etc for approx 16 hours otherwise we would have stayed there an extra day.
Monday 4th August 2008
Darwin (106 Km).No wonder some days we don’t get far, we had only done 3 kilometres before we got to the Mary River Rest Area and stopped for a cup of tea! We did want to look at the river walk there but it didn’t look to interesting so we decided to continue to the “Window in the Wetlands” Visitor Centre.The centre provides an overview of the wetlands, with information on the wildlife, seasonal changes and the problems of feral weeds and animals (Buffalo and Pigs).The top floor of the centre commands fine views across the floodplains so we stopped quite some time looking at the interpretive information boards and using their binoculars, we spotted a Cattle Egret on the back of a large Bull Buffalo so when we left we drove along the gravel road to take a picture of them.This road leads to the “Jumping Croc” departure point for the tour up the Adelaide River, we decided not to go on the tour preferring to see these magnificent reptiles in their true environment and not being used like “circus animals”.The cupboards are rattling a sure sign that we need to replenish the larder, our “blue book” had a long list of shopping requirements so we stopped at the first Woolworth’s we saw on the main road into Darwin.We are stopping at the Big4 FreeSpirit Resort for at least the next couple of days, we are still a few days ahead of schedule so we will decide shortly how long we want/need to stay in the City, hopefully we will also be able to get the website up to-date with some of our “Kakadu” photo’s, a special place that we will never forget.
Tuesday 5th August 2008
As you can probably gather we have not been able to access the Internet whilst in Kakadu National Park so today we caught up with updating, this is quite time consuming especially the uploading and then editing of the photographs as it is a slow process. However, sitting by the pool sipping a Rum & Coke while working on the laptop helped.Also we checked all our emails and if we have not done so already we will answer them as soon as we can.We did have some good news, we have won the UK lottery again, the second time in a month.No begging emails please it was only 2 tenners and NO, I’m not telling you our numbers!The motorhome was looking a bit dirty on the outside, didn’t notice until we were parked next to another of the same type (actually with the Rego’ only 2 numbersaway from ours) whichobviously had just been collected from Darwin, so I decided to give it a wash down with a bucket of water and a broom.Curry night at the campsite Bistro tonight, oh no it isn’t, Jenny (oh yes it was) had misread the information sheet.With no meat taken out of the freezer we really enjoyed the Tuna salad sandwiches, honest.
Wednesday 6th August 2008
Our third visit to Darwin, albeit all we saw on the 2 previous occasions was the inside of the airport terminal when we disembarked while the plane was refuelled en-routefrom Cairns to Singapore.The first job this morning though was to find a Hairdresser for Jenny to get her hair cut, the receptionist at the camp site suggested “Cutterz & Minx” in Palmerston a suburb of Darwin and gave Jenny a 10 per cent off coupon, Palmerston is only 4 kilometres away and the bus stop was right outside the camp.The No8 bus duly arrived on time and it was a nice surprise that “senior’s” had free transport for the next 2 weeks, we must be looking older because he didn’t ask for proof of age!After Jen’s haircut (the hairdresser made a far better job of it than I would have done), we caught the No8 bus again, Darwin city centreand main shopping area is a fair distance from where we were staying so the “free fare” was a even bigger bonus and we arrived just in time for lunch.After a stroll around the shops we walked along the Esplanade a nice quiet parkland along the harbour looking at the information boards at different points.Darwin has 2 main pieces of history, 1942 when the Japanese bombed it using 188 aircraft and 1974 when Cyclone Tracy devastated large areas of the city on Christmas Eve both regrettably with high losses of life.We also spent some time at the information centre deciding what to see before leaving Darwin, we will probably visit the Aviation Museum tomorrow and we have already booked the mini-bus which takes us to the famous evening Mindil Market from the camp site.
If you don’t think pushing 63 is hard, wait till you start dragging it.
Thursday 7th August 2008
A catch-up on emails this morning before we caught the bus to the Australian Aviation Heritage Centre, a hanger which is on one side of the Royal Australian Air Force baseand Darwin’s International Airport which both occupy the same large area of land 10 kilometres outside the City Centre.The Museum’s“star attraction” is a mammoth B52 Bomber one of only two displayed outside of the USA, it dwarfed the other aircraft including a Japanese Zero Fighter shot down in the raid over Darwin and a Mirage Jet that crashed in a nearby swamp which has been renovated but still shows signs of the incident.I had a particular interest in the B52 as they often figure in the type of fiction books I read.We returned late afternoon in time for the coach to Mindil Beach Sunset Market, $8 return each was great value for a “door to door” service.The first thing I had to be “dragged”away from was a guy playing the Didgeridoo (actually he had 4 mounted on a frame) and with another guy playing the drums the sound was fantastic.We ambled along the first row of stalls which for the most part were food stalls from every conceivable country (I tell a lie, we didn’t see Cod and Chips) all of them looking delicious, even the “road kill” stall which had Emu (which we don’t like) Kangaroo, Crocodile and Possum sausages to name but a few.Before making what was to be a very difficult decision on what we wanted to eatwe decided to sit on the beach (all romantic like) and watch the sunset, however with a few hundred people having the same idea the romance bit went “out the window” (I don’t do romance anyway).Decision made!Mongolian Beef for me Mongolian Chicken for Jenny, we had a enormous amount in a plastic container for just $8 each, in fact I finished Jenny’s off for her and we ate while watching a fire juggler doing his show.Those people that do those paintings using nothing but aerosol paints and bits of newspaper fascinated us so we watched one of those for some time painting atypical Australian scene, bush, gum trees, waterfalls and sunsets.We walked around most of the stalls which all sold the usual market goods from clothes to souvenirs.One which was very interesting was Paul Arnold Bush Photographer, we had visited the gallery in Darwin on Tuesday and saw some tremendous photographs of theNorthern Territory, what a surprise when we saw Paul himself at his stall, a 3 day stubble, an Akubra hat that had certainly seen better days, and barefooted, still when you can take that quality of photograph it doesn’t really matter.The last 20 minute’s before the return to the campsite was listening to the Didgeridoo player, I nearly missed the coach back!
Friday 8th August 2008
After doing a few chores this morning, filling with fresh water, using the toilet dump point, refuelling and popping into “Woollies” for some fresh fruit, we droveto Casuarina Coastal Reserve a short distance from Darwin City and walked along pristine sand before returning to the picnic area for our lunch.The sea looked so inviting but as is the case here, they don’t advise swimming because of the croc’s and added to that (although not this time of the year) the Box Jelly Fish is to be avoided.The afternoon was spent at the campsite swimming pool, relaxing, swimming, reading and in my case falling asleep! We are all prepared (hopefully) for an early start tomorrow to drive to Litchfield National Park another part of Australia that has been on my “wish list” to visit for many years.
Saturday 9th August 2008
Litchfield National Park 13 07 65S, 130 39 25 E, (159 Km).As much as we enjoyed Darwin it was nice to be “back out in the bush” and literately as I have typed this first sentence, to reinforce what I mean a large Kangaroo has just wandered through the camp site no more than 50 metres from us.Smoko this morning was at Rum Jungle Lake picnic area just before the National Park. The park unlike Kakadu has only one way in (for a rental vehicle) so we are camping at the farthest point in the park and working our way out.After finding a nice shady site at the camp ground and “reserving our site” i.e. leaving our table and chairs in situ, we drove to Bamboo Creek the site of a old tin mine abandoned some years ago, it was very interesting following the interpretive trail around the ruins to the main processing shed, which had an old pump still there, made by Ruston in Lincoln, England.Just 1.8 kilometres down the road was Walker Creek where we walked along the creek to “Rock Hole” a small waterfall where we stopped for about a hour with our feet dangling in the creek, it was so refreshing and while I was there I had a “foot scrub” on the sandy bottom, (our feet have taken a pounding as we have been wearing throngs now for the last few weeks, its saves washing socks!).Although we shall be going there tomorrow our last stop of the day was at Wangi Falls (and just 4 km from the campsite) one of the most popular places in Litchfield Park, by 4:30 pm we thought it would be a quieter time to take a photograph as the “tour buses” would have departed but it was still busy with people swimming in the large pool at the bottom of the falls, we had to wait therefore to choose the right moment to take a photo,we will look forward to a swim there ourselves tomorrow.
Sunday 10th August 2008
Like I said yesterday we prefer being in the bush even when a Kangaroo left a “calling card” right outside the motorhome door during the night!Our first drive of the day was to Greenant Creek and the 2.7 km trail up to Tjaetaba Falls, the falls were picturesque if not spectacular and we wished we had taken our swimmers with us, we had misread the “No Swimming” sign to think it was not allowed in the falls area, only to find out it was only in Greenant Creek below the actual falls (the creek is sacred to the local Aboriginalpeople).Next stop was Tolmer Falls, these falls were spectacular cascading into a deep narrow gorge.Again no swimming allowed (not that we could see a way down to the waterfall bottom) this is because the caves at the base are inhabited by two endangered species of Bat.We decided to do the 1.6 km loop trail back to the car park this passed some beautiful small rock pools above the falls and through a forest.There was little shade in the car park area so we drove to Tabletop Swamp a small wetland surrounded by paper-bark trees and with a relatively shady picnic area where we had our lunch.Our next stop was Florence Falls, one of the most popular places in the park, walking first to the lookout to takephotos and then descending the 135 steps (reputed, Jenny counted 180) down to the base and plunge pool.Not wanting to ascend the steps we walked back to the car park along the 1.6 km Shady Creek Walk which follows the creek upstream past some very nice rock pools and picnic areas, we also stopped to watch a pair of Eastern Rosella feeding, a parrot we had not seen before.After a lot of walking today we welcomed the swim in the plunge pool at Wangi Falls swimming right near the falls to sit on the rocks between the twin cascades, relaxing watching other people having fun, especially the family who were attempting to paddle underneath the falls in an inflatable kayak, we could only just reach the cascade with the amount of water driving down and the wind that it created, great fun and very refreshing. Tomorrow we leave Litchfield National Park, but we have still two places to visit before we return to Katherine to start our journey west to Broome.
Monday 11th August 2008
Katherine,14 29 12 S, 132 15 35 E, (328 Km).First stop this morning after a short drive was Buley Rockhole a very picturesque series of bubbling cascades and pools.We were told it was very popular, what we didn’t realise was that every tour bus in the Northern Territory had arranged it so that they all arrive together!Needless to say we didn’t stay long, I was going to shout “croc in the water” to shift them all out so I could take a photograph, but thought better of it, there would have been a mass stampede.Next stop and a lot quieter was the Magnetic Termite Mounds, a field of curious termite mounds all aligned roughly- north-south, very interesting but hardly photogenic.We had smoko at the same place as when we entered the park, at Rum Jungle Lake because we knew there was shade there, with the heat here (remember it is the “Aussie” winter) an important consideration when parking anywhere is to seek some shade.Next stop, completely unscheduled, this guy waving his arms in the middle of the road, when I stopped he politely asked me to blow into his machine.Trust me to be the one to be stopped for a random breathalyser test, negative of course. Jenny thought he was a nice young man (I think she fancied him, I didn’t) and wanted to be frisked, before things got out of hand, I swiftly drove away.After stopping at a rest area for lunch, we reached our destination at Katherine, stopping at “Woolie’s” for a few bits and pieces and refuelling (4c off a litre when you spend $50), we have stopped at the same camp site as on our way north, the internet is easy to get on to here and this may be the last time we are in communication for a few days……………….Sorry for the interruption tried to take a photograph of the sunset at the back of the camper van, stunning, but to late to get the tripod out, still there will be other’s.
Tuesday 12th August 2008
Timber Creek, 15 39 63 S, 130 28 88 E, (283 Km).Back on the Savannah Way today along the Victoria Highway and heading West.Somebody said this part would be boring, all we would say that someone has a low boredom threshold, the highway passes through the Gregory National Park with beautiful sandstone escarpments and the drive, in our opinion was outstanding.We were on a very quiet highway and everyone waves as they go past in the opposite direction as if they had never seen another vehicle for days!We wave back because its as if we had not seen another vehicle for days!The policeman waved yesterday because I was the first visitor from the UK he had seen for days!Jenny waved at the Policeman cos’ she fancied him! We stopped for lunch at the escarpment walk 2 kilometres past the Victoria River crossing and after lunch walked up to the Garrarnawun Lookout which gave spectacular views over the Gregory escarpments and the Victoria River.To-nights stop is at Timber Creek the only town between Katherine and Kununurra the township evidently has a population of 300, so far I’ve only counted 12 and they are all stopping at the camp-site.We did walk down to the creek (I guess it might be theTimber Creek) covered on each bank with Pandanus trees (hence the name I suppose) to watch the fish being fed and the hopeful sight of a crocodile, no croc,but a cheeky Whistling Kite did come swooping down and swipe some food.
Wednesday 13th August 2008
Keep River National Park, 15 52 51 S, 129 03 15 E, (201km).First stop this morning was at Bradshaw Bridge, which gives good views both upstream and downstream of the Victoria River.We just sauntered up the highway stopping for coffee after just 57 kilometres at East Baines River Rest Area and then for smoko after a further 60 kilometres at Saddle Rest Area.We pulled into the information lay-by at Keep River National Park close to the border with Western Australia and had lunch before driving the short distance to the parks camping ground at Gurrandalng a further 17 kilometres, picnic tables, fireplaces and pit toilets but no power, hopefully the leisure battery will sustain it’s charge for the duration of our stay.There is supposed to be a honesty box for payment but we haven’t seen one at present, we will check at the Ranger station on the way out.After a relaxed afternoon we decided to walk the 2 Km Gurrandalng track, nothing could have prepared us for the stunning walk around the sandstone rock formations, the late afternoon sun on the rock was amazing and unexpected, we walked up the escarpment and could see for so many miles(kilometres) and the different colours of rocks, trees and grasses as the sun went down is another great memory.Hopefully I have captured it in the photographs I took. I will attempt to get up for sunrise tomorrow to capture the light on the westerly side of the escarpment, I’d better set the alarm!Tomorrow we will cross the state border into Western Australia, see you there!
The older I get the better I was.
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